Now, I’ve had a lot of Au Bon Climat’s top Chardonnays that not only compete with but sometimes could pass for top white Burgundies. But this is the first of their inexpensive “house whites” I’d say that about.
It’s from the tiny bit of very old Pinot Blanc in the great Bien Nacido Vineyard, along with Pinot Gris from both Bien Nacido and Sierra Madre.
Now given that Pinot, Chardonnay or Syrah planted in these top sites sells for three times the price, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris here are a very, very rare labor of love. And in Clendenen’s hands they produce an incredible value dry white wine that Eric Asimov (as smart as his dad) of the New York Times called a rare wine at this price that “feeds the soul.
This 2021 is even fresher and more intense at this stage than the 2019 and 2020 were – but also (somehow) with the mineral and even what Tanzer calls “carnal” undertones of truly great, old school white Burgundy.
As the winery explains:
Both Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc had small grapes on small clusters. Smaller grapes are more intense due to have more skin in the skin to fruit ratio. The skin of grape has the flavor. More skin, more flavor.
The piercing acid of the Pinot Gris was softened by malo-lactic fermentation in small barrels. This secondary fermentation gives the wine some richness. Richness is very different than flabbiness. This is a rich wine with structure. The combination makes for food friendly wines.