From a prime, high-altitude (350 meters, Montalcino’s sweet spot) vineyard in the Southeast of the appellation, this is a top-rank Brunello at just an unbelievable price for what it is.
Dunnuck rates this both outstanding and the best Cencioni Brunello to dats, saying:
One of the first female winemakers in Montalcino, Patrizia Cencioni purchased her family estate in 1989. Today she is joined by her two daughters, Annalisa and Ariana, who handle the export market and the hospitality sector respectively. Offelio is an homage to Patrizia’s uncle, who took the role of her daughters’ Nonno (grandfather) and encouraged Patrizia in the early days of her winery to pave her own path forward. 123, the name of the cru on the other side of the road, is at the highest elevation, with slower maturation than the other sites. Over the past several years, the estate has moved away from small barriques and has been working to produce wines that remain rich but also have elegance and a sense of place.
The 2018 Brunello Di Montalcino reveals layers of cherry licorice, leather, dark minerals, and smoke. It is full-bodied, with iron richness, and meaty red plum, mocha, and dried herbs. It has ripe tannins, with a fresh lift of acidity, and is a nicely balanced wine with a fairly long finish. Drink 2025-2035.
And from Vinous. And the Canadian Wine Align, which says:
Certainly a deeper aromatic expression of 2018 Brunello and of that viscous-glycerol kind but in this instance the condition replays on the palate in just the same way. Unctuosity like few others and for those who live and breathe Montalcino by mouthfeel this is truly the one for you. Still in the lithe vintage style but silky smooth, rich and satisfyingly so.
And for Jancis Robinson:
Concentrated ruby with orange tinges. Fragrant, concentrated dark cherry and juicy, aromatic cherry fruit on the palate. Plenty of acidity on the finish, lifting the whole.
