Robinson says:
Tasted blind. Certified Ecocert and AB organic. From a plot of 75-year-old vines at the confluence of the Maine and Sèvre rivers, a gneiss hillside, shallow soils, ploughed by horse. Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, juice selection, spontaneous fermentation. 36 months on lees in underground vats with regular bâtonnage. RS < 0.5 g/l.
Smells like a Chelsea bun! A slice of warm, fresh panettone. Candied angelica and candied citrus peel. And then anise notes fill the glass – fennel seeds. Deceivingly rich and seductive, because it starts with all these warm, fragrant patissière indulgences and then the acidity and minerality and freshness race in like archers’ arrows, pinning richness to a high stone wall. Salt and seaweed and cold-salt winds press the petrichor and pewter of rain into the luminous green-gold of fruit laced with wild honey and limes soaked in ginger syrup. Apricots and satin, salt and rocks, long spine of citrus-pith bitterness and fennel-seed coolness; and yet the wine has a fieriness, a heat, which is not alcoholic. Silky yet intent finish. Astoundingly exciting. A dramatically complex wine that is bold and sturdy in its horizontal space, but elegant in its verticality.
