Of the nine top examples of this utterly beguiling Greek white grape Robinson has reviewed (and she’s reviewed 23 of them in total – what other critic could make that claim for Cretan Vilana?!), six of them were this very special “grand cru” wine from Lyrarakis.
Here’s her 17+ review for this 2018:
Planted on loam soils at 650 m. Dry-farmed 30-year-old bush vines. 12 hours' skin contact. Fermented in tank at 18 ºC. Matured in 500-litre, 400-litre and 225-litre, new and re-used French oak, acacia and Caucasian oak for two months. pH 3.2, TA 6.75 g/l, RS 2.15 g/l.
Complex aroma that I find hard to describe: there are indications of the oak in a cedary spice but also something that makes me think of heather honey without the sweetness, maybe it is just the wild herbal/floral character of the variety and the site. There's also something more piercing and stony as well as a counterpoint of rounded creaminess on the palate. That herbal cedary character is definite on the palate, perhaps a hint of rosemary, excellent freshness balanced by the creamy texture. Already complex and likely to become more so. Long, tight stony-citrus aftertaste. Direct and elegant at the same time with a pure line of citrus from start to finish. Not especially concentrated but all in balance.
If the Assyrtiko could stand in for a top Chablis, there’s almost nothing to compare this to – it’s just so deep and fascinating and ineffably complex. And in a way, wild.
The winery says:
The 30-year old vineyard “Pirovolikes" is planted with the grape variety Vilana, and is still being pruned traditionally as a bush vine. It is considered one of the most privileged vineyards of our area. The vineyard is situated at 650m., on a medium slope with rocky soil and a southeast aspect, and gives us a wine of high concentration and aroma.
It is in fact their highest altitude vineyard, in a place where altitude (with its cooler temperatures and increased winds) equates very much with quality.
There are no US listings for this rare single-vineyard Vilana, but the next-best price anywhere (in the UK) is $27.
And I think it’s worth a lot more than that.
