What separates really great Riojas, like this one, from all other great Spanish reds is their almost achingly beautiful purity, elegance and class. They aren’t “big” wines or even usually very dark ones (though this one is on the bigger and darker side for a Rioja), but they are absolutely exquisite. Indeed, maybe the closest comparison for us is to truly top-level Burgundies and Pinot Noirs.
And they are indisputably the world’s very best values in truly “classic” wines.
Here’s the Wine Advocate’s 94+ review for this:
The single-vineyard red 2018 Finca Valdepoleo follows the line of the 2016, two cooler years. It's a fairly large plot that was planted in 1973 in the village of Laguardia on limestone and clay soils at 630 meters in altitude. It fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and also with some stems (something they don't normally do), and it matured in French oak barrels for one year. The finesse of this wine captured me, and I believe this is the finest vintage for this vineyard bottling.
When I poured the whole range and had a quick look at all the wines, this one made me raise my eyebrows. It's elegant, subtle and pure, floral and aromatic, really expressive and captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and nicely integrated oak. It's a modern version of the 2013. Truly outstanding.
And remember, both Britain’s top Rioja expert, Tim Atkin, and the Spanish press rated it even higher!
And Decanter loved it, too:
Based in Laguardia, Pujanza produces an accomplished range of Riojas. This is from the 17.5ha Valdepoleo vineyard, planted in 1973 at 630m. Fermented with indigenous yeast, it spends 12 months in French oak, which creates a subtle framework for an elegant palate, with beautifully integrated tannins. Lovely purity of fruit – cherries, blackberry, fresh plums – and freshness, with a hint of florality and a touch of salinity on the finish. So enjoyable!
Like its famous neighbor Artadi, this is aged in French oak, and thus ostensibly “modern” in style. But the emphasis here is far more on beauty – and I must say we prefer this style. (Especially at its much lower price. Artadi Riojas at this level are well over $100.)
Atkin, by the way, also named Pujanza one of the few “First Growths” in his Rioja classification. And even at their normal prices, they were among the most reasonable Riojas in this elite ranking.