In an incredibly impressive family, Adrianna Catena more than holds her own. Not only is her El Enemigo project with Catena’s brilliant winemaker Alejandro Vigil perhaps the best Chardonnay of South America (and at a fantastic price); she also has a PhD from Oxford.
What’s unique and fascinating about the Chardonnay is that Vigil ages it in large 500-liter barrels that he doesn’t entirely fill, so roughly 80% of them develop a layer of flor, like a Jura white. Along with their cool-climate acidity, this helps to leaven the wine’s considerable richness, and adds layers od additional complexity.
James Suckling rates this stunning 2019 El Enemigo 96 points, saying:
Cooked apple, lemon curd and light vanilla on the nose, together with stone, mineral and some dried flowers. Medium to full body with a creamy texture and beautiful fruit. Hints of vanilla and pie crust in the aftertaste. Always great quality for the price. Drink or hold.
It’s hard to think of another Chardonnay from anywhere else in the world that offers the quality, the complexity and the sheer fascination of this at such a reasonable price.