Always a top Sancerre, and always very fairly priced for one of the handful of top cru bottlings from this most fashionable of French appellations.
But the 2020 is just a bit “extra.” (“Plus.”) In fact, it’s considered perhaps the vintage of a generation here. 5/5 versus 4/5 for the other two.
There’s never much press on this, but for style at least, it’s worth reading the last Daulny review from Vinous, on the 2010 vintage:
Very pale color. Pristine, ethereal aromas of grapefruit pith, spearmint and lavender. Dense, brisk and soil-inflected, with a captivating, saline lavender and violet perfume that reminded me of fleur de sel from France's Camargues. Wonderfully bracing and penetrating sauvignon blanc, without showing any bitterness or hardness. Finishes with outstanding subtle persistence.
Of course, this 2020 vintage is even more impressive, but it’s a similar archetype of everything great Sancerre can be.
Indeed, what’s truly crazy is you can spend over $300 a bottle on Vatan’s Sancerre now, but it really isn’t any more special than this!