Wine Advocate 98:
Full-bodied, silky and plush, with soft tannins cushioning the lengthy finish, this should be a real beauty to enjoy over the course of two decades.
They actually rate oner the Pierre Usseglio Deux Freres at $180.
Decanter also rates this the best-ever Usseglio Chateauneuf:
Generous, deep, focused, fruity and defined, this isn't giving away much at this stage, but it certainly has a good sense of freshness and balance. Powerful finish with fairly assertive tannins, with a little dry touch that should soften in time. Long finish. A wine like a finely tailored suit. From Grenache planted in 1901.
As does Suckling:
So deep and dark, yet with such vitality and energy, this is a great Chateauneuf that’s remarkably drinkable right now. I love the exotic touch (pomegranate and mangosteen) and, in spite of the density, this has a graceful finish that glides over our palate and off into the distance. A grenache-based blend from vines planted in 1901 and 1902. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold.
And a top five-star rating from England’s leading Rhone authority, MW JLL:
Full, dark red robe; the nose is wide, sure, has a savoury, lamb stock tone, sits quietly with plenty more to come. There is a purity in its neat concentration of red fruit, a stately manner from the very old Grenache. The palate is very well filled with suave, rolling content, all the silky ease of old vine sève [sap], declares a hum of power on the finish. It’s an engaging, impressive in a good way wine, its coated elegance appealing. It’s always a winner – this one has STGT connotations thanks to the less strong sunshine impact than in recent times. The finish congregates its padded tannins and the inner gras.
(His STGT designation is reserved only for the most “classic” wines.)
