The two most “serious,” and in our view trustworthy US wine publications, Vinous and John Gilman’s View from the Cellar, both raved over this truly amazing Albarino.
Gilman, who always loves this but rates the 2021 the best ever, says:
The Albariño “Selección Especial” from Adegas Gran Vinum is from the estate’s Miranda Aurosa vineyard, with the vines now fully fifty years of age. The wine is fermented and aged in stainless steel tank and is given four months of extended aging on its fine lees. The 2021 vintage offers up a beautiful bouquet of fresh lime, green apple, salty minerality, lemongrass, a hint of smokiness and a lovely array of floral tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with a lovely core, fine mineral undertow and grip, impressive focus and a long, perfectly balanced finish. This is very serious Albariño! (Drink between 2022-2035)
And though Vinous hasn’t reviewed the best-ever 2021 yet, this is what they said about the 2020:
Pale yellow. Vibrant citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complemented by suggestions of jasmine and smoky minerals. Palate-staining Meyer lemon, pear nectar, honeysuckle and spicy ginger flavors are underscored by a repeating mineral nuance that builds as the wine opens up. Shows impressive depth but comes off lithe, finishing with strong, floral persistence and fine detail.
And the Wine Review Online:
This is the best rendition of Albariño I’ve tasted this year, and though it carries a premium price, it is worth every penny, and surpasses in quality several wines that are my annual benchmarks (such as Pazo de Señorans, Fillaboa and Granbazan). In relation to those outstanding Albariños, this is physically denser and more concentrated, but without sacrificing any freshness, maintaining virtually perfect fruit-to-acidity balance through a long, symmetrical, mineral-tinged finish. The aromas show the lightest touch of floral scents without seeming perfumed, and the flavors are impressively deep but still precise, with no indication at all that the wine’s sheer size was achieved by pushing ripeness past an optimal point before harvesting. This excellent producer turns out three less expensive wines (Mar de Viñas and Nessa, both with list prices of $18 and Esencia Diviña at $24), all of which are excellent. Yet this wine, sourced from a single, estate vineyard, is stunning stuff that will very likely alter your sense of how good Albariño can be, and offer a reference point against which to judge everything else from this appellation. On top of all that, I’d bet it will become even better with a few more years in bottle…I just don’t know how much better for how many years. But there’s no doubt that this is a superb wine in its own right while also being a clear category leader.
As they say, not only a great or even beyond great Albarino, but a profound dry white wine by any standards.
