The tiny Clos de Jeu vineyard, located in the middle of what would be the grand cru sector of Marsannay if Marsannay had grand crus, makes the most profound wines of the village. (Its aspect and soils are very similar to the famed Clos St.-Jacques in Gevrey-Chambertin, and the wine is, too.)
Roty makes a top Clos de Jeu at about $100. But I prefer the finer, more beautiful example from Collotte, regardless of price. It’s from Collotte’s oldest vines, organically farmed and made very gently and artisanally, with only 25% new oak.
And it combines the richness and power of a good Gevrey-Chambertin with the finesse of a Chambolle-Musigny.
If the 2015 vintage was a legitimate 93-point red Burgundy (and Collotte’s top ever for the Wine Spectator), this 2022 sets a new standard for our very favorite Marsannay.
The only review so far is this German one:
The over 50-year-old vines of this prospective 1er Cru are rooted in an exceptional location above the village on crinoidal limestone, which is rich in fossilized starfish and sea urchins and has the same geology as that of the famous and much more expensive Gevrey-Chambertin Grand Cru “Charmes”, “Latricières”, “Griottes” and “Chapelle” as well as the entire hillside location of the 1er Crus “Clos Saint-Jacques” and “Lavaux Saint-Jacques.”
Wonderfully profound, extremely precise, complex and harmonious and very pure-toned with dark heart cherries, blackberries, dark currants in harmony with a delicate barrel touch and the typical “Clos de Jeu spice”, a well-equipped Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits. Full-bodied on the tongue, juicy fruit, precisely polished, great structure, created for good storage potential, will be able to mature very well.
There is simply no other $50 red Burgundy of the sheer quality, complexity and rare class of this. Not just premier cru-level, but very high premier cru-level stuff.
