From very old, organically farmed vines on Portugal’s northern border. (Right by where the best Spanish Albarinos are made.)
This one is quite simply a revelation.
The Wine Advocate agrees, rating it above the (Outstanding) 2020 vintage we sold previously, as the best Fpral de Melgaco Old vines ever, saying:
The 2022 Foral de Melgaço Old Vines (40+ years) is an Alvarinho that comes in dry, without fizz and at 12.9% alcohol. Aromatic and expressive in its youth, this is super today, well balanced, tasty and adequate at least in mid-palate depth. I always wonder how well these will age and develop, which they should do to justify some of my typical enthusiasm for the brand—in Vinho Verde, you don't get to claim to be great any more if your wines fall apart in two years—but this seems capable of aging well throughout the decade, maybe more. It is certainly lovely today, and when tasted again the next day, it retained all its fruit while showing more of its structure. It is downright irresistible with the potential to improve.
And a top rating from the Portugese Revista de Vinhos, which says:
A selection of Alvarinho grapes surrounding the village of Alvaredo. Traditional vinification without destemming, in order to fully preserve the grapes’ primary aromas. A very mineral and intense aroma, tropical fruit and extremely intense floral notes. Very structured and full on the palate. An explosion of fruit with vibrant acidity.
And from its importer:
This is a beauty! Very complex wine with great balance and style. This rich concentrated wine, is packed with intense aromas of citrus, apple, pear and floral scents with a tropical background. The palate is full-bodied and voluminous, with a fresh and vibrant acidity and great minerality.
Very few dry white wines can offer the combination of great freshness, flavor and complexity the way a top Albarino/Alvariho can. And this one really nails it.
Indeed, this 2022 is the first vintage I’ve tasted that adds an almost creamy richness to the underlying complexity and verve here. It’s just delicious!
