Here’s Jancis Robinson on this singular and utterly extraordinary dry white:
Intense stony citrus aroma – clearly Assyrtiko but with its own personality. Grapefruit, stone dust, lime. On the palate, this is impressive in the combination of depth of fruit and lively acidity. The skin contact has added a slight and attractive chewiness to the texture, which accentuates the length. Very good, mouth-watering finish.
From steep mountain vineyards that are dry farmed and organic in the Voila area of eastern Crete, where else can you find a dry white wine with these qualities (and quality) for only $20?
Indeed, the qualities, and the character, this wine displays remind me of the way great Chablis once was…but now sadly very seldom is today. It doesn’t really taste like Chablis – Assyrtiko isn’t Chardonnay. But the precision and minerality and mouth-watering intensity so abundant in this are qualities Chablis mainly just dreams of today.
Hugh Johnson’s latest World Atlas of Wine singles out Lyrarakis as the top winery in all of Crete. And tasting this, it’s easy to see why.
