Decanter’s top Phinney wine ever – by a wide margin:
Early in the year, I began interviewing Dave Phinney for an article that appeared in the March 2023 print issue of Decanter, and while we talked about Our Lady of Guadalupe, his vineyard project in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA of Santa Barbara County, I had yet to taste the wines. When I finally did, late this year, it was a rewarding experience. They boast Phinney's characteristically opulent style with a raging river of bright, ripe fruit flavours. Still, they are uncharacteristic of Phinney with alcohol levels under 15% and bear a remarkable freshness, imbued with the region's classic high natural acidity. Our Lady of Guadalupe Vineyard (OLG) was acquired in 2015. After two years of composting, vines went into the ground in 2018, and plantings continued in phases. Nearly half of the large estate is planted on varying slopes and aspects. Aged 10 months in 49% new French oak, with a 3.76pH and 14.8% alcohol, the 2022 leads with a more savoury profile than the inaugural 2021 release (also a fabulous wine). Alluring candied cherry notes are scented with expressive cedarwood laced with fragrant cumin and flamed orange peel. A polished wine on entry with silky textured fruit so pure and so ripe and bright and perfectly expressive of black cherry, black plum, Red Delicious apple, and layers of baking spices. Satiny tannins glide up against a juicy acid profile, building to a finish of cocoa nib nuances and fresh garrigue notes. Juicy, structured, and delicious, it leaves one in a perpetual state of wanting for more.
Same for Vinous on the 2021 (and this 2022 goes beyond it!):
The 2021 Pinot Noir Our Lady of Guadalupe is a rich, textured wine. Red/purplish fruit is super primary in its first impression. Rose petal, cedar and cinnamon are some of the notes that fill out the layers with a bit of coaxing. Readers will find an opulent, juicy wine, very much in keeping with Dave Phinney's style. Aging is 13 months in French oak, 54% new. This is a terrific showing from Phinney's new OLG label.
The winery says:
The 2022 OLG Pinot Noir pours a dark persimmon core with a lucid rose hip rim. Laden with elegant aromatics, notes of bright raspberry, bing cherry and Pinot funk develop into darker tones of black cherry, mocha and mahogany. On the palate, the entry is scrumptiously soft with cranberry crunch, ripe strawberry, redcurrant and a touch of maritozzo. Typical of the Sta. Rita Hills, the finish is lined with minerality and some saline hints with closing touches of fennel and anise.
